I’ve given this a bit more thought, and I believe that the 2K battery/mains doorbell only allows a trickle charge through to the battery, which in turn powers the doorbell and camera circuitry. This may be to avoid passing a significant current through the wiring, which could trigger any mechanical chime unit that is in the circuit.
If this is so then if the detection circuity draws more from the battery than the charging circuit can provide, the battery charge will gradually reduce and a more powerful transformer would not help. Cutting down the sensitivity might work otherwise a hard-wired (non-battery) doorbell might be necessary.
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Two users (Nuts and paul) have nailed the problem:
Nuts said:
“It’s also not pulling the full 24v either as when I test it with a USB cable plugged in it charged up and works. I just refuse to drill a hole in the house and run unrated USB cable through the drywall for this sorry doorbell.”
Paul said:
“I’ve given this a bit more thought, and I believe that the 2K battery/mains doorbell only allows a trickle charge through to the battery, which in turn powers the doorbell and camera circuitry. This may be to avoid passing a significant current through the wiring, which could trigger any mechanical chime unit that is in the circuit.
If this is so then if the detection circuity draws more from the battery than the charging circuit can provide, the battery charge will gradually reduce and a more powerful transformer would not help. Cutting down the sensitivity might work otherwise a hard-wired (non-battery) doorbell might be necessary.”
I only started running my brand new battery 2k unmounted 2 days ago while I researched the various attempts at `. I got it from Amazon at 33% (not 80) and it rapidly declined to 28%. I disabled all the great features (rendering it basically as useful as the old mechanical doorbells) and turned it over on it face so the PIR would not detect anything and it still did not charge up. So, I added a micro USB cable connected to a wall wart and plugged that in, in addition to the transformer doing its inadequate “best” to charge it thru the screw posts. Et voila, in the morning it was at 100%. I left it plugged into the transformer but removed the USB cable, enabled all the features back and it rapidly declined to 98% in a couple of hours. I plugged the USB back in and it’s back to 100%.
I am convinced the problem is a baked in design flaw that is not fixable by software (or Eufy would have done so by now as they have fixed or improved other software issues. They cannot admit to a manufacturing defect as a recall would be horrendously expensive. Switching transformer voltages from 8 to 16 to 24v, or increasing VA’s from 10 to 30 to 40 don’t fix it. Changing wire gauges from 22 to 20 to 18 AWG doesn’t fix it. Adding or removing a resistor or a chime doesn’t fix it.
I wish the wired version worked with homebase, but it doesn’t and I have no confidence it will ever work with homebase 3.
Imine is going to work on USB (in addition or instead of a transformer) and I will need to be convinced it will continue to work or its going back. Having to remove it and charge it up very few weeks is a non-starter for me. I have until Jan31st to return it.